The village of Upper Moutere and it’s environs are a cycling heaven. And if you have never been to the Nelson region or have not had a chance to explore, this area is a must-see. After all, this is the region that inspired the early modernist painters such as Doris Lusk and Bill Sutton and has attracted arty types ever since. The hills of the beautiful Moutere area were covered in apple orchards then, whilst now you may see more vineyards than apples, but that isn’t all bad! Upper Moutere is a detour off the Great Taste Trail but we think it is well worth the ride – as long as you are happy cycling on roads. We recommend a stopover in Mapua en route. The village here is a beauty and if you enjoy a bustling holiday atmosphere, come during January – but book your accommodation early. The wharf at Mapua is now home to cafes and artsy, foody places, but not so long ago it was the loading point for ships, taking those fabulous Nelson apples to far flung ports. The photographs in the little museum on the wharf are a fascinating record of this history. A personal foody favourite in Mapua is the Naked Bun Cafe, where the European style baking is pretty jolly good.